If you’re in search of a place with a dramatic coastline, stunning mountains and breathtaking nature then look no further than Madeira, Portugal. This small island has no shortage of beautiful views and epic adventures. We spent over two weeks in October 2023 exploring all this island had to offer. From stunning sunrise spots to epic hikes, Madeira is truly an adventure seekers dream destination. In this blog, I will share some of the best known and can’t miss spots in addition to some hidden gems that will help you escape some of the crowds and experience the island’s most natural beauty. 

Before we jump into the day-by-day itinerary, here are a few useful tips for planning your trip to Madeira:

Where is Madeira and how to get there?

Madeira is an archipelago of islands located off the northwest coast of Africa in the North Atlantic Ocean. Madeira is politically part of Portugal but geographically part of the African continent. The main island is not very big, only stretching 34 miles in length and 14 miles in width. Being an island, the best way to get to Madeira is by plane. There is only one airport on the island, Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport (FNC), which is located on the eastern side of the island, about 10 miles north of the capital city, Funchal.

Extra Tip: If you are prone to motion sickness, definitely take some medication before flying to Madeira. Due to the gusty weather conditions common on the island, FNC is considered one of the most dangerous airports in the world, and landing tends to be pretty bumpy! But don’t worry, it’s statistically safe to fly into Madeira, and the pilots that fly there receive extra training to ensure the safest landings and takeoffs.

When is the best time to visit?

The warmest months on the island are in the summer, from June through August, but they are also the busiest months. To avoid the crowds, I suggest visiting in the spring or fall shoulder seasons. During these times, the temperatures across the island are still warm enough for a nice beach day while not being too hot to enjoy some hikes in the mountains. We visited in late October and had mostly sunny days with temperatures in the 70s. It does gein the mountains, especially early in the mornings, so I suggest bringing a light jacket and a few warm layers if you come in the shoulder seasons like us!

What is the best way to get around Madeira?

If you plan to explore around the island, you should definitely rent a car. There are not many options for public transportation outside of the capital city, Funchal. There are taxis on the island that you can hire to take you to some of the main attractions, but if you want the freedom and flexibility to see more of the island, renting a car is the way to go. We found the prices to be on the expensive side for rental cars (around $50/day) even in the shoulder season. If you want to save some money, look into some of the local rental car companies that are located just outside of the airport. Many offer free shuttles to and from the airport and tend to be a bit cheaper than the ones located at the terminal.

Extra Tip: I recommend renting a car with high clearance. The roads across Madeira are narrow and steep. We rented a small SUV and ended up having to pay a hefty fee because we scratched the underside of the front bumper exiting a steep driveway. If you rent a smaller car with low clearance, just be extra careful.

Where should you stay on Madeira?

While Madeira is not very big, the roads are small and winding, so it can take a couple of hours to get from one side to the other. To help reduce your amount of time in the car, I suggest basing yourself in the towns of Calheta, Ponta do Sol, or Ribeira Brava. These three towns are centrally located on the south coast of the island, which tends to be warmer and sunnier compared to the north shore. We stayed in Calheta, and I highly recommend that you do as well. It’s centrally located, and the small town has everything you need, including a decent-sized grocery store, nice restaurants, a well-equipped gym, and a beautiful white sandy beach. The beach was a big reason we picked Calheta because many of the other beaches on the island are black pebble beaches that aren’t very comfortable to walk or relax on. Calheta also has an amazing view of the sunset over the ocean each night!

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How is the English on the island and is there any Portuguese to know? 

Madeira is a popular destination for tourists from all over the world, so in most of the main towns and popular destinations, you will have no problem finding English speakers. If you venture to more local areas, it’s not as common for people to know English. There are two important Portuguese words you should know - “miradouro” and “praia.” Miradouro means “viewpoint”, and praia means “beach” in Portuguese. As you explore Madeira, you will see signs for miradouros and praias everywhere. As you follow this itinerary, don’t be afraid to stray off your route to check out any miradouros or praias you may stumble upon - that’s how we found some of our favorite spots!

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Day 1: Travel to Madeira

Your week of adventuring begins when you land at Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport and pick up your rental car. You have about an hour's drive across the island to Calheta. Spend some time settling into your accommodation before venturing out to watch the sunset and grab some dinner. The best spot to watch the sunset is from the breakwater walls at Praia da Calheta. Climb up on the large concrete blocks and watch as the sky and sea light up! After sunset, walk over to the nearby Calheta Marina and enjoy dinner at one of the beautiful restaurants that overlook the boats and ocean.

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Day 2: Hike the PR1: Pico to Pico Trail

We’re kicking off this week of adventuring with the famous Pico to Pico hike, also known as PR1! The trail begins at Pico do Areeiro, which is about an hour's drive from Calheta. Plan to arrive at the parking lot about 30 minutes before sunrise to ensure you get a parking spot. This is the most popular hike on the island, so it will be fairly crowded even in the shoulder seasons. To beat some of the crowds, I suggest starting to hike before the sun rises. Most people will wait around and watch the sunrise from the Pico do Areeiro visitors center. You will still get amazing views of the sunrise from the trail, and you will beat the post-sunrise rush of people.

Before hitting the trail, make sure to take note of any warning signs that may be posted at the trailhead regarding trail conditions and weather. The trail is quite narrow with steep drop-offs in many places, so be sure to wear shoes with good traction and don’t attempt the full hike if you are not comfortable with heights and steep ascents. Overall, the trail is well maintained, and there are wire rails along many of the steeper sections. Be prepared for LOTS of steps in both directions and an overall challenging hike. Be sure to bring lots of water and snacks!

Hike Stats: 7.5 miles | 4,300 ft elevation gain | out & back | difficult
AllTrails Link: Pico to Pico 

Extra Tip: I suggest attempting this hike on one of the first few days of your trip. The weather in the mountains is a bit unpredictable and tends to be cloudy many mornings. You may want to leave time to attempt this trail more than once in case the weather doesn’t cooperate on your first try!

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Day 3: West Coast Tour & Swim in Porto Moniz Natural Pools

To help you recover from yesterday’s hike, we’re going to take it a little easier today and explore the west coast of the island. First up are some beautiful miradouros (viewpoints)! I suggest visiting Miradouro da Raposeira, Miradouro da Garganta Funda, and then Miradouro da Santinha as you drive west. After taking in the views, head down to the coastal town of Porto Moniz. Grab lunch in this cute little town before making your way to the Piscinas Naturais de Porto Moniz (natural swimming pools). These natural pools formed by volcanic rock right at the ocean’s edge are the perfect spot to relax for the afternoon. 

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Day 4: Hike the Levada Nova/Levada Moinho Trail

Today we’re off on another hike along some Levadas! Levadas are water channel systems, also called aqueducts, that carry water along and through the mountains and you will see them all over the island. Since they transport water, levadas are generally very gradually pitched making them great walking/hiking trails. The Levada Nova/Levada Moinho hike begins just behind the Igreja da Lombada (church). I suggest downloading the tail on AllTrails to help locate the start, it’s not well marked. You’ll first walk along Levada Nova before turning onto Levada Moinho. Both levadas offer stunning views of the Ponta do Sol valley and ocean in the distance. Part way along Levada Moinho you will come across two beautiful waterfalls that you will be able to walk behind. Overall, it’s a fairly easy hike with little elevation gain and great views on a clear day!

Hike Stats: 5.5 miles | 2,200 ft elevation gain | loop | easy/moderate

Hike AllTrails Link: Levada Nova/Levada Moinho 

After the hike, head to the little coastal town of Ponta do Sol for lunch. If you have time, you can head to the beach here but it’s very rocky so you may want to rent some beach chairs when you get there. To end the day, head over to the Cascata dos Anjos (famous waterfall over the road) to watch the sunset over the ocean. 

Extra tip: If Cascata dos Anjos is too crowded, follow the same road towards Calheta and stop at Calhau dos Anjos (also marked as “Two hidden waterfalls” on google maps). This beautiful waterfall cascades directly onto a beach and is typically much less crowded than Cascata dos Anjos. 

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Day 5: Fanal Forest & Sexial

Today we’re venturing to the Fanal Forest, which is home to ancient laurel trees. The forest is best known for its foggy weather that settles around the craggy trees, creating a uniquely eerie and mystical atmosphere. You are free to wander through the forest or follow one of the designated hiking trails. After you’ve seen enough of the forest, head over to the north side of the island to explore the town of Seixal and get lunch. On your way, I suggest stopping at Miradouro da Eira da Achada and Miradouro Ilhéus da Ribeira da Janela. Seixal has its own natural pools as well as a nice large sand beach (Praia do Porto do Seixal) for you to enjoy all afternoon. If you would like to watch the sunset, make sure you leave enough time to get back to the Calheta area or head to Miradouro da Raposeira, as you can’t see it from the north coast.

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Day 6: Hike Pico Grande Trail

Today is another early morning to catch the sunrise before taking off on your next hike! Head to the Boca da Corrida viewpoint just before sunrise and watch the sun come up over the ocean before hitting the Pico Grande trailhead. This trail is well maintained but not well marked, so make sure to download the AllTrails map before taking off and keep an eye on the directions as the trail splits in a few places. Overall, the trail is moderate, except for the last mile when it gets very steep and requires a bit of scrambling to reach the peak. The trail has stunning mountain views along the way and is much less crowded than the Pico to Pico hike, especially if you’re there early.

Hike Stats: 5.6 miles | 2,800 ft elevation gain | out & back | moderate

Hike AllTrails Link: Pico Grande 

After the hike, head back to Calheta to grab lunch, enjoy the afternoon at the beach and watch the sunset over the ocean to end the day.

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Day 7: Funchal & Travel Home

Unfortunately, the trip is coming to an end, and it’s time to head back to the airport. If you have time before your flight, I suggest checking out the capital city of Funchal. We didn’t make it here on our trip, but from what I've heard, it’s a very cute city worth a stop. Check out the Lavradores Market, Santa Maria Street, and Town Square. If you are up for one last adventure, you should go for one of the famous wicker basket toboggan rides or take a ride up one of the cable cars! Finally, make sure to leave enough time to drop off your rental car before heading to the airport if your rental company is located outside of the airport grounds.

A week is the perfect amount of time to get a good sampling of all that Madeira has to offer but if you are lucky to have more time to spend on the island, here are a few more hikes that we really enjoyed.

• Caldeirao Verde Levada Trail
• PR11: Vereda dos Balcoes
• São Lourenço Viewpoint

Extra Tip: Skip the 25 Fontes Falls hike, it’s WAY overcrowded and the hike and views weren’t worth the crowds. 

I hope this blog gets you super excited for your trip to Madeira! It is a truly beautiful island with so much to do and see. We spent two full weeks there and I already can’t wait to go back and explore more. Feel free to reach out to me on instagram at @carriedawayadventures if you have any questions about the island!